Oil Cleansing Method 101 - Part I

Yes, I realize that I just raved about the Trader Joe's nourishing facial cleanser in a post a few weeks ago. And while I still stand by the product and use it in my routine (more on that later), I feel compelled to share this exciting and radical facial cleansing method - well, radical to me at least. Using samples of an oil cleanser and moisturizer that my coworker (the same one who introduced me to ginger chews) made, starting three weeks ago, I began trying the oil cleansing method, or OCM for short. 

Like many, I was skeptical at first. The thought of using oil to clean seemed so counter-intuitive, until I realized that the beauty industry brainwashes consumers to believe that any amount of oil on your face = bad. From oil-free cleansers that leave your face dry and tight to oil sheets that soak up oil from the T-zone, the broad spectrum of products that claim to keep your face free of excess oil sends the message that oil doesn't belong on your face, let alone in any products you wash with. But for thousands of years, people have used oils (such as olive oil) as cleansers and moisturizers on their hair and body. From a quick search on Google, it seems that the oil cleansing method remains popular as a natural alternative to drugstore cleansers containing various chemicals. 

The Basics of OCM: 

• The principle behind OCM as a cleansing method is that "like dissolves like." Oils in the cleanser dissolve the makeup, dirt, and sebum accumulated on your face throughout the day. 
• Oil cleansers can be made from a mixture of different oils, but most commonly including a cleansing oil - castor oil, and carrier oils such as argan oil, grapeseed oil, sweet almond, EEVO, and jojoba to name a few 
• To make the cleanser easy to wash off with water, polysorbate-80 can be added as an emulsifier.

Steps to Creating & Using Your Cleanser:
I like to experiment with different ratios of oils using measuring spoons and small plastic containers. Once I know the ratios of all the components, I make a larger batch in a glass jar (clean jam jars work great)! *make sure the container is clean and completely dry - otherwise the polysorbate-80 will react with water to make the concoction very murky

1. Pick a carrier oil or a combination of oils depending on your skin type. Typically, olive oil is versatile for all skin types, as is argan oil (which costs a bit more). 
2.  Test out different proportions of castor oil to carrier oils. As a reference, those with normal skin type should start with a 50:50 ratio of castor oil to carrier oil. People with dry skin should tip the balance toward more carrier oil. Also, jojoba oil is a good carrier oil to use if you have acne prone skin because it's the closest mimic to skin's own sebum. (Jojoba is what I purchased for my cleanser). 
3. Add polysorbate-80, the emulsifier. Not a lot of this is needed - about 1/5 of  final volume. 
4. Mix well by swirling the container. 

5. When you're ready to use the oil mixture, give the container a good mix. Pour a small amount into the palm of your hand. Depending on the types of oils you use and the ratios, the solution can be very runny or more viscous. 
6. Warm up the oil with your fingertips, and massage onto face. 

7.  Prepare a hot towel. After about a minute with the oil on your face, lay the steaming towel on your face. 

8. Rinse your face with warm-to-hot water and wash out your towel.

9. Moisturize. (I've been using an oil moisturizer before bed. It's a thinner formula than the cleanser since it doesn't contain polysorbate-80 or castor oil. It soaks into my skin overnight and in the morning, my skin does not feel greasy at all as it sometimes does when I use a lotion moisturizer).

Resources: Check out these links for more information on OCM!

Keeper of the Home  (YouTube video that shows step by step how to create and use oil cleansers. She has a great video on creating "no 'poo" shampoos)

Derm TV (YouTube video; dermatologist talks about the science behind OCM and thoughts on whether it's a good option for acne-prone skin)

Crunchy Betty (great article for what kinds of oils to use and other testimonials of OCM)


Stay tuned! My next post will detail my experience testing out different oil ratios, where to buy supplies, and overall thoughts.